西陣織 西陣織工業組合

* 1
  1. 袋帯。


The history of Japanese silk weaving begins in the 5th and 6th centuries with the introduction of silk farming and weaving technology from the Chinese mainland. When Kyoto became the capital in the 8th century, the Imperial Court established an office devoted to silk fabric production (Oribe Tsukasa), so the textile industry developed under state control. The name Nishijin is derived from the district where the former headquarters of the Western (Nishi) army (jin) was located. It was here that craftsmen gathered and restarted the textile industry after the Onin Rebellion had divided the city into east and west for 11 years starting in 1467. At the end of the Muromachi period (2nd half of the 16th century), the characteristics of Nishijin-ori (Nishijin fabric) were established: weaving together many types of colored yarn to create spectacular decorative patterns. The Nishijin district remained the production center of high-quality textiles until the early Edo period (17th century). During the Meiji era (19th century), the trade flourished again when craftsmen brought back modern weaving technologies from France, including the Jacquard loom invented in Lyon. Currently, Nishijin-ori is given a wide range of uses from kimonos, obi and accessories to furniture (wall hangings, sofa upholstery, curtains and other interior fabrics) to seat upholstery for cars, trains and airplanes.

* 2
* 3
* 4
  1. :初代龍村平藏代表作の袋帯「威毛錦」を使ったバッグ。昭和13年ベルリンでの「第一回国際手工業博覧会」で金賞を受賞。
  2. : 金糸・銀糸を使用した高級織物「早雲寺文台裂」の数寄屋袋。かつてクリスチャン・ディオールがドレスに使用したことでも知られる。
  3. :「纐纈織胡蝶花錦」。纐纈織は、織物を組織する経糸、緯糸とは別に強撚糸を経糸・緯糸共に入れて織り、蒸熱処理することで表面を膨れ上がらせて柄を織だす技法。

(1,2,3,4 すべて株式会社龍村美術織物)

1: Fukuro-obi. 2: A bag using Odoshige-nishiki fukuro-obi, a masterpiece by founder Heizo Tatsumura. Gold Medal at 1938 International Handicraft Exhibition, Berlin. 3: Sukiya bag made with Souunji bundai kire, a high-class woven fabric that uses gold and silver threads. It has also used by Christian Dior in dresses. 4: Koukechi-ori kochouhana-nishiki. Koukechi-ori is a technique in which in addition to the warp and weft making up the woven fabric, strong twist yarn is put together, woven and steam heated to weave a pattern on a swollen surface. (1,2,3,4 Tatsumura)